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Some notes for international volunteers ...
The majority of CALLE's volunteers are local people from the community of Tabajaras. But a very important role is also played by companheiros from other countries who come to live and work in the community. A small step towards a world where people freely share their skills and resources, beyond social divisions and the limits of "nations" and "cultures".
That said, in the world we live in right now, if you come to the favela as a volunteer from the so-called developed world you are going to encounter some very real cultural differences. Probably experience some things that are quite unlike what you've known before. These notes attempt to answer some of the most frequently asked questions from prospective volunteers. If you don't find the answer you're looking for here, email Joan at joan@callerj.com.
Is CALLE just a cheap holiday scheme?
It is important to us to be clear that CALLE is a part of the community, run by the community and for the community. International volunteers have a valuable contribution to make. But this is not about providing a gap-year experience or something to look good on a CV. CALLE is not a holiday camp. We're not running "favela tours". If that's what you are looking for, there are plenty of large NGOs in Brasil of that ilk.
When we say we are not an NGO, we mean it. When we say we are revolutionaries, we mean that too.
All that said, we like to go to the beach now and then too.
Is it dangerous?
Is probably the most frequently asked question of all. Rio has a reputation as one of the most violent cities in the world. The statistics for violent deaths bear that out. It is also true that most of these deaths occur in favelas and other poor areas. Thus, you might conclude, Rio's favelas are dangerous places.
On the other hand, there is a real sense in which the favela is a very safe place to be. There is almost no petty street crime, robbery, rape, etc. There is a strong sense of community. Many middle class Brazilians live in a state of constant fear behind barbed wire fences, with 24 hour security guards to protect their property and status. Favela residents leave their doors and windows open and walk the streets at all hours without worries.
So we have something of a contradiction - and no very simple answer to give. Maybe it will help to understand a little bit about the internal politics of Brazilian society, and of the favela.
Like many favelas, Tabajaras is not governed by the Brazilian state. The nearest equivalent to government inside the favela is provided by the criminal faction Comando Vermelho. The faction makes its money by selling illegal drugs - cocaine and marijuana - from a house inside the favela called the "boca de fogo" (mouth of smoke). The faction provides employment to favela residents who wish to work as drug dealers, guards and lookouts; and recycles at least a share of the drug profits in aid and social services to the community.
The faction also polices the favela. Anyone caught breaking the code - which includes a ban on robberies and rapes inside the community - may be viciously punished. The worst punishments are reserved for those who inform on faction activities to the police. This strict application of law means that - most of the time, and provided you do not upset the faction - the favela is a very safe place.
(The strength of comunity ties inside the favela also make a big contribution to this security. People live close together, literally on top of each other, and know each other well. In many senses the atmosphere is more like that of a village than a big city.)
But on the other hand it is the presence of the faction in the favela that brings the greatest danger. The chance of you getting mugged in the favela is very very small. There is, though, a chance - though still a small chance - that you might get caught up in a gunfight.
Brazil is an extremely corrupt country, and the faction can usually keep the police away from its territory with a cut of the profits. (There is also some evidence that the majority of guns used by the drug dealers have actually come from the police and military in the first place). But now and then, whether politicians or superiors insist on a media offensive, or the police are agitating for a bigger payoff, the police enter. They enter to make an arrest or a show of force - not to stay. There are also rival factions who might have their eye on a favela's drug profits.
The police come heavily armed, and are not hesitant to shoot. Over 1200 "bandits" were killed by police in the state of Rio during 2007. According to the police they were killed in "acts of resistance". There are also those killed by the police and whom the police admit were bystanders. There also those killed by stray bullets from the drug dealers, who are not hesitant to shoot back.
If you come to work with CALLE you are very likely to hear gunshots fired. You may even see the police enter with automatic rifles at the ready, passing CALLE's school in the square on their way to invade the boca. Favela residents shrug these off as "normal" occurrences. No one who wasn't directly involved in drug trafficking has been killed in Tabajaras in the year since CALLE began.
You are highly unlikely to be caught in the middle of a shoot-out. But it could happen. This is a (small) risk we take.
Do I need to speak Portuguese?
You do not need to speak Portuguese to give language classes - though it can help. But we think it is better that volunteers who live inside the favela speak at least some Portuguese. This is mainly for reaons of respect and maintaining good relations inside the community. (See below - does the favela welcome foreigners?)
Do I need any qualifications?
No. None at all.
Is there a minimum time commitment?
We ask teachers for a minimum commitment of three months. That helps keep the momentum of classes going and give teachers time to settle in. Also, and particularly if you are planning to stay with us inside the favela, it helps to build trust inside the community (see below - does the favela welcome foreigners?)
At the same time, we are very interested in hearing from people who have ideas for one-off projects, workshops etc. that might just last a weekend. There are no hard and fast rules by any means.
Of course, someone coming here from a very different environment is not going to have a clear idea of what to expect. It can be hard to make a commitment to stay for three months when you've never been to a favela - or met us. Maybe you can't stand the place. Maybe you can't stand us. Very understandable. But still, we hope you have at least the intention of staying for a while, if it all goes okay.
What is it like living inside the favela?
The favela is a community. Forget the anonymity of the asphalt jungle below - you will soon get to know lots of people, and to be known. You will find many people warm and welcoming, and you can make friends quickly. You can walk alone along dark alleyways at any hour and feel safe.
There is electricity, running water, telephone, satellite TV and all mod cons. Though you may experience frequent water cuts (hence those blue water storage tanks on the roofs), and occasional power cuts. Some parts of the favela have open sewers. That can get unpleasant if it rains very heavily. Some neighbours keep their alleys extremely clean, but the main road tends to be pretty dirty. Then, Rio as a whole tends to be a messy place.
Does the favela welcome foreigners?
On the whole, yes. Brazil is a pretty tolerant place, and you are unlikely to experience any hostility. People in the favela tend to be courteous and respectful of each other - as people tend to have to be when they are living in close quarters, and with the reality of violence around them. So long as you are courteous and respectful too, you will be treated the same. Some people will take an interest in you, and make friends with you. You will get called "gringo" or "gringa" a lot (possibly even if you come from South America), but don't be offended.
However, we do think that there are some limits to the acceptance the favela can give to outsiders. The presence of poverty and violence as daily reality implies a certain amount of caution. In particular, we think it is a good idea that international volunteers living inside the favela are able to communicate in Portuguese. We think it is a good idea that international volunteers living inside the favela stay for long enough to be seen as residents who are making a contribution to the community, not just passing tourists.
What is it like living in Rio?
Rio is a laid-back, disorganised, sweltering, smelly, decadent, extremely beautiful mess. Life happens in the streets. Life happens without a license. There is said to be a way around everything. Cariocas are the friendliest people in the world. Cariocas are not know for their sincerity. Everything happens in a little while. It rains more than you probably expect. That's okay because you don't need to wear many clothes. Our favela backs onto wild forest. The middle of this city is a mountainous forest of fruit trees and waterfalls and monkeys and butterflies and mosquitoes.
What is it like working with CALLE?
First off, a lot of that is up to you. We are new, small, and informal. You might even say disorganised. Maybe. This is Rio. Or maybe just - self-organised. Certainly we are small, decentralised, non-hierarchical. There is no one to give orders - it is down to what each of us is able to contribute. Some people can only do a little, and that's okay. But there is always more to do. There are always ideas running ahead of us. If you have an idea, and it fits, run with it. Yes, we're making it up as we go along. You can be too.
If you want to teach English, at the moment we have English classes three days a week from 3pm to 9.30pm. Maybe you will also have students who would like to do extra lessons outside those hours. You could also help with the saturday art classes, or start a new class or reading or discussion group in some other subject.
Apart from teaching, we need volunteers to man the social club/ library. That includes issuing books, helping with the computers, and selling drinks and snacks which go tp pay the rent. And just hanging out. You could combine that with another activity - e.g., running a conversation group or working on this website at the same time.
If you want to work seven days a week 16 hours a day for CALLE you can certainly find things to do. If you just want to do classes three days a week (or even just two if there are a lot of teachers), plus a shift or two in the club, that is okay. It is up to you. Though you may want to remember that many of our volunteers are people who work long hours for very little pay, and still find time on top of that to contribute.
To plan our activities we have a meeting of all the volunteers every couple of weeks - or whenever people feel the need for one. (As we all live and work within a couple of minutes walk of each other, it's not hard to arrange). There is no one in charge, and everyone can participate equally in the meeting. Usually one person volunteers to take notes, and someone else to get beer and guarana.
What kind of visa do I need?
Officially there is a visa you can get for volunteer work. In reality it seems few foreign volunteers in Brazil go through all the bureaucracy it would take to get this. They typically come on tourist visas, which for most countries last three months, renewable for another three after that. (You can check the details for your country on your local Brazilian consulate website). That is, typically, a total of 180 days in any 12 month period. According to the law, visitors who overstay have to pay a fine of about R$8 per day, capped at a limit of a few hundred reais, in order to leave the country without problems.
What is healthcare like in Rio?
There is a free public healthcare system in Brazil, to which foreigners have access. There are major hospitals nearby, and a general clinic (posto do saude) just at the bottom of the hill. Rio is said to have some of the best hospital services in the world when it comes to gunshot wounds. For pretty much everything else the public healthcare system is appalling. You will find yourself led on a trail of red herrings from one clinic to another before you find the only doctor who can treat your particular ailment. Then you'll have to come back next week to see the doctor. The doctor will then be sick or on holiday. Etcetera.
At the moment none of CALLE's volunteers have health insurance. But if you're worried about it and want to take out some kind of policy, it might make sense.
In Brazil currently (February 2008) there is a yellow fever health scare after a man died in Brasilia, but there are as yet no specific warnings for Rio. The major health concern tends to be dengue fever, which is very rarely lethal, but can give you a nasty bout of flu with lots of aching.
Does CALLE have any insurance cover for me?
No. If you want any kind of insurance, you will need to sort it out for yourself. Nor do we know very much about how you should go about this.
Can CALLE provide accomodation?
Yes. See here. Please note that in the volunteer house you will almost certainly be sharing a room, maybe bunkbeds. Like most people in the favela, we do not have a great deal of space or privacy. But we like our house, and so far we all get on well together. If you need solitude there are beaches and forests a few minutes away - or often everyone else is out and you can have the house to yourself.
Alternatively you might want to look for your own accomodation, either inside or outside the favela. It is possible to rent a small studio apartment in the favela typically for around R$300 a month. That will likely come with no furniture or cooking equipment at all.
How much money will I need to bring?
Supposing there are three or four volunteers in the shared house, you are looking at maybe R$150 a month for rent and bills there. Supposing you share cooking in the house (R$1 for 6 bread rolls, R$2 for a bag of fruit, plus fruit on the trees for free, rice and beans and vegetables all extremely cheap) maybe eat the occasional meal at the restaurant next to the social club (R$6 for a big lunch), take an açai down by the metro station (R$2 for 300ml cup), drink the odd beer (R$2 - R$2.50 for a 660ml bottle in the favela, could be more down the hill), take vans ($2) and buses ($2.10) a few times a week to get out of Copa, and so on ... you are living comfortably by local standards for as little as R$500-R$600 a month. That being something like the average wage for a favela resident - who may have a number of mouths to feed. If you want to eat in restaurants that serve a more varied diet than meat and rice and beans, shop in the mall, go to the movies (around R$15 a time) ... you could spend a lot more very easily.
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